When you walk into Asif you might think that it is one of the new chic and stylish restaurants to recently spring up in midtown Tel Aviv. But Asif (the Hebrew word for ‘harvest’) is much more than a restaurant—as a non-profit organization and culinary center that is dedicated to cultivating and nurturing Israel’s food culture, it is one of Israel’s most intriguing culinary spots.
What is Israeli food? When the State of Israel was envisioned by the fathers of Zionism seven decades ago, it was clear that considering the unique and multifaceted demography that consisted of immigrants from Eastern and Central Europe, North Africa, Yemen, Iran, and Iraq, it was necessary to have a melting ipot policy in order to forge a new and modern Israeli identity. Whether this policy succeeded in blending these communities and to what extent is an entirely different discussion which has occupied cultural history scholars, as well as those of other fields. But when it comes to the culinary, each of these communities—Persians, Polish, Germans, Moroccans, Yemenis—have successfully preserved their own food cultures, because in the newly-founded state with limited resources, they could keep the traditional food brought from their countries of origin more than any other of their customs. While the country has gone through many changes, the remnants of this food culture remains strongly preserved.
With the emergence of new Israeli cuisine in the past two decades how it has distanced itself from the ideology of homogenous society, it has become more and more relevant while continuing to encompass the various cultures that began it. A new generation of chefs and the popularity of food content in social media has explored and forged the culinary as a key cultural element of Israel.
Being a combination of a restaurant, a library, an exhibition space, cooking workshops, a shop for food from small local farms and vineyards, and even an incredible rooftop farm, Asif is a place where one can fully experience and appreciate Israeli food. Asif’s mission statement has been defined as exploring local food culture and providing a home for research, dialogue, and a wide range of culinary experiences.
Founded on the idea that food is central to shaping identity, its contribution to the local culture is immense. Just like the Slow Food Movement, Asif promotes local food as well as regional and traditional cooking while demonstrating the farming of indigenous plants and herbs that exist in their ecosystem. Here you can eat fresh and contemporary food by some fantastic chefs while witnessing how food has become an expression of Israel’s diverse population, innovation, fascinating history, and complicated politics. What a phenomenal experience, and one that must be a part of any visit to Tel Aviv.
Photos courtesy Asif, by Dan Perez.
